Tuesday, 30 May 2017

S/S 2018 TEXTILE TRENDS

Spin Expo, a leading fibre, yarns, knitted fabrics and knitwear show, shared their S/S 2018 trends for new yarns and fashion fabrics. This new macro trend direction "Expect the unexpected" is divided into five main themes: Saturation, Imperfection, Distortion, Pigmentation and Explosion. These themes are inspired by the changes and uncertainties that exist in our societies, economic structures, political systems and environmental crises. I think their previous season's (A/W 2017-2018) trends about Biomimicry were visually and conceptually stronger, but it is certainly a feast for the trend driven eyes and mind.

Whether we like it or not, there is no constant other than change. There is a genuine fight between
wanting to keep the security of what we already know and challenging the insecurity of discovering the future.

Fashion always illustrates the world at its most pressing and controversial moments, beauty standards are, and will continue to be redefined. We need to adapt to change and amplify novelty products, being even more creative than ever using new technology, respecting individual differences in taste, with a real consideration for sustainability

Saturation


The first concept titled “Saturation”, is looking at everything organic, natural, but with the addition of bio-technical fibres and stretch. Inspiration comes from organic and mineral shapes, shells, as well as matter; plaster, cellulose and paper. Innovative manufacturing methods, embellishments and finishing
add extra sophistication to stitches and body forms.


 

STRUCTURES

  • Ellipse & convolution; Lycra blister stitches, stretch
  • Detailing; Monofilament sculptural additions linked together
  • Movement; Structures bonded with plastics
  • Embroidery; Beading, puff binder and silicone print qualities
  • Lace construction; 3D Textures
  • Netting; Openwork

 

YARNS

  • BCI cottons are important, in hybrid combinations using polyester and nylon.
  • Extra fine Merino and noble fibres
  • Recycled synthetics
  • Extra twisted ultrafine yarns
  • Viscose
  • Use of Spandex and elastane
  • Moisture management
  • UV protection
  • Tactility
  • Coatings

 

Imperfection

 

"Imperfection" explores the concept of beauty from the perspective of race and diversity. It analyses what beauty is and what it means to different people and cultures of the world. The importance of individual difference and perception allows us to consider how something that may be deemed imperfection can sometimes be more beautiful than perfection. Dysmorphic features and robotics bring a new dimension to change, with a drive for supernatural performance.
 







STRUCTURES

  • Subtle space dyed; Very subtle melange yarns
  • Sun printing, devoré; Iridescence
  • Very smooth surfaces; Skin like surfaces
  • Moiré; Changes in tones
  • Material but detailed; Fragmented
  • Simple structures; Stitching
  • Porous; Moist
  • Mocks ladders with ripple stitch dip dye painterly qualities
  • Heat transfer resist dye tie dyed hanks
  • Devoré

YARNS

  • Crisp worsted cotton and linens
  • Polyester with a powdery touch
  • Twisted synthetics
  • Nylon & Polyester
  • Merino - coarse and fine
  • Space dyed
  • Glimpse of metallic
  • Tape yarns to print on

 

 Distortion


Everything that we consciously acknowledge can be shaken and twisted to offer new constructions. Integrating movement as a new creative process can provide direction and offer interesting concepts that can drive creativity in textile development.



 

 STRUCTURES

  • Pleats
  • Undulation
  • Stretchy yarns pulling the fabrics in different directions; Everything entangled
  • Macro & micro boucle’s; Loops
  • Tone on tone patterns; Paint effects
  • Confusion; Frizzy
  • Furry; Webs, net inspired
  • Rubber; Latex
  • 3D – different levels on the surface of fabrics; Protection

 

YARNS

  • Cellulosic
  • Combed cottons
  • Light twisted yarns
  • Twisted wools and cottons
  • Nylon in touch
  • Textured yarns
  • Fine mossy yarns
  • Performance chenille’s
  • Paper – coatings
  • Plastic feel

 

Pigmentation


Colour and its myriad of shades are defined by “Pigmentation”. The fourth story integrates the deepness and structures of various black coloured yarns and fibres, studying how 3D effects, spraying and adjunction of various elements and printing work together to bring colour to the absence of colour. It speaks of traditions, repurposed craft, sustainability and heritage.






STRUCTURES

  • Knots, twists; Macramé, knotted tassels, embellishments
  • Bits & pieces; Twisting inlays
  • Layers; woven qualities
  • Modernity to the structure; Domestic e-wrap
  • Eco-sustainable; Natural dyes, blurred patterns
  • Stripes in all directions; addition knitted panels woven into fine knit structures

YARNS

  • Worsted cotton
  • Crisp viscose
  • Linen
  • Ultrafine Merino
  • Monofilaments
  • Trilobal nylon
  • Brass – Copper
  • A feel of craft with technical aspects

 

Explosion

 

"Explosion" is a festive interpretation of colours and ideas, integrating techniques both crafted and manufactured and combining a wide variety of dyes to produce and innovate. In a time of change and uncertainty, we aim to create positive mindsets and adventurous spirits to boost the imagination
and go beyond the commonly accepted and seek inspiration and positive potential in the least likely of places. Migrating population and different cultures affect our sense of beauty and colours.





 

STRUCTURES

  • Confused, scattered; Hand-made feel
  • Deconstructed, abstract; Jacquards, cut yarns
  • Iridescent inks patterns; Dazzling, winding
  • Waving multi-coloured stripes
  • Fireworks – vibrancy
  • Fringes, crochet, macramé

YARNS

  • Silks
  • Metallics
  • Plastics
  • Viscose – mat and shiny
  • Worsted ultrafine wools and cottons 
  • Filaments
  • Fine Merino and blends
  • Coloured paper yarns
  • Synthetic raffia

Repurposing and Redefining Sustainability


Many spinners have taken their inspiration from new research and development techniques creating sustainable products using new technologies. We have witnessed a real drive to explore and evolve the collections around the idea of social responsibility, and this fits with the demands of consumers who are becoming more demanding and discerning in their purchasing behaviour. Organic fibres are partnering with new spinning and knitting technologies and what used to be a “marketing” appeal has now become a genuine direction. Consumers are asking for “better products” and we are witnessing a growing demand for better yarns, keeping their shape and both look and feel like affordable luxury. It means that middle to high-level suppliers with intelligently thought out collections are likely to see their business stabilize in the global economy. Brands need to serve more demanding consumers and need to partner with reliable and innovative suppliers.

The growing trend for athletic wear has been an eye-opener to many, who have switched from luxury goods to more modern, easy-to-wear and easy care fashion. Functionality is invading the younger, more sport oriented brands, and this has an impact on the yarn and knitwear collections.

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