I haven't been this excited about trend forecasts for ages! Time goes by too fast already, but these trends make we want to fast-forward to next Fall. Spin Expo, a leading fibres, yarns, knitted fabrics and knitwear show, shared their A/W 2017-2018 trends for new yarns and fabrics.
The macro trend is called Biomimicry; the form and function of our garments influenced by and learned from biological species and their processes. All with the objective to design human applications and products that provide sustainable developments and solutions applied to textiles.
The first inspiration comes from the shapes, forms and structures that the identified living beings have, bringing new direction to stitches, patterns, silhouettes and construction methods.
The second level of inspiration relates to the manufacturing process; by studying these living beings in greater detail we are allowed to select innovative systems that can be applied with simplicity and wisdom to create pure and excellent quality items.
By taking a closer look at how the various species interact with one other, as well as examining the global functioning of natural ecosystems, we find a multitude of directions and inspiration for the upcoming winter season.
Biomimicry > Animal
Fashion Textiles
In the animal world all skins are perfect, a result of their adaptation to climate and individual habitat. We thrive to imitate the various surface aspects using primitive yet sophisticated materials with a soft handfeel and naturally healthy shine. Elemental and natural fibres inspire lofty yarns that evoke animalistic furs. Noble fibres dominate, with prevalence for Cashmere, Alpaca and Yak, while treatments of brushed, boiled and patented surfaces are applied to simple shapes.
Active Wear Textiles
Since existence animal skins have developed and adapted to ensure survival. Garment construction is driven by function; taking inspiration from shapes, forms and structure found in the animal kingdom to respond innovatively to the needs of the athlete.
Biomimicry > Insects & Invertebrates
Fashion Textiles
Exotic furs and skins spur creative textile solutions while ancient art inspires simple shapes and primitive silhouettes that enfold and swaddle us, protecting us against the cold temperature of long winter nights.
Key structures and refined stitches are inspired by the world of insects; iridescent coated beetle wings inspire textures and luminous contrasts via metallic fibres and yarns, while delicate spider webs provide inspiration for winter crochet and knitted lace. Butterfly wings influence new intarsia and jacquard patterns; velvety soft surfaces of chenille, burnt velvets and silk take their cue from the fragile softness of evening moths.
Kukka's Entomology collection is inspired by the colours, patterns and symmetry of insects. The prints I designed magnify and dissect nature's finest creatures. The prints show how fragile and yet powerful nature is. Although I wasn't looking at trends at all while designing the collection, it's always nice to see that the collection resonates with the current and future fashion market.
Active Wear Textiles
The diverse world of insects and invertebrates are a natural source of inspiration for combat sports given several common traits; the rapid changes of movement of flies, the flexibility of caterpillars due to the lack of vertebrate and the functionality of light weight constructions such as cocoons, wings and webs.
Biomimicry > Plants & Algae
Fashion Textiles
Inspiration from lichen and moss are explored for new colour combinations and stitch structures. The plant kingdom provides a rich vein of autumn inspiration as mossy boucle yarns mimic forest grounds. Ancient root systems provide cables and plaiting directions, more abstract and modern than seen before. Tapestry inspired florals reference the pre-Raphaelite and Art Nouveau periods and British arts and crafts period when William Morris created his immortal Liberty prints.
Active Wear Textiles
Studying the functions of plants and algae helps us to provide solutions to several of the challenges we face when we commute or carry out outdoor physical exercise.
Biomimicry > Earthscapes & Skies
Fashion Textiles
Views of Earth and Space are abstracted to the point of non-recognition as photos from the edge of the atmosphere and further, inspire new structures and patterns for jacquards and 3D blister stitches in fine gauge yarns. Patterns are disrupted and skewed as textiles and fashion imitate the natural eco-system of mountains, rivers and clouds.
Active Wear Textiles
The earth is a vast array of landscapes that has evolved from physical origins but with the cultural overlay of human presence. This has resulted in a living synthesis of people, places and the development of local or national identity. A cross-parallel is drawn by combining our approach to both adventure and urban sports.
Biomimicry > Molecular Dimension
Fashion Textiles
A macro view of the natural world is explored as the forms and shapes of atoms, cells and ions inspire stitches and colour combinations that appear computer generated. Mathematical symmetry mixes with synthetic yarns to create matte and shiny double knits while boiled cashmere brings a new contemporary luxury to knitwear. Invisible elements like sound waves direct new stripe formations. Energetic colours are combined via disrupted coatings and lacquered spray paints.
Active Wear Textiles
Within Molecular Dimension we explore how clothing can help to enhance restore activities such as sleep and meditation to improve athletic performance. We focus on touch, smell, colour vibration and patterns that encourage relaxation, energize and heal the body.
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